fuck art, let’s dance!!
In the six months I’ve been in Barcelona, these are the places I frequented the most. It’s not a best-of list - but they’re places you should see if you’re ever here. This is a possibility because of Barcelona’s present position as “a way station on the international hipster-fashion trail,” according to that bible of hipsterdom, Travel + Leisure. It is a nightlife-heavy list because as Dorothy Parker has written, it is far more important to know where to dance the night away, and where you’ll get fucked up and laid than to see old monuments (slightly paraphrasing obvs).
1. El Refugi (map): I live right next to Placa Reial, which is where all the guiris have breakfast every morning. I suggest you go for your eggs and coffee to El Refugi instead, a hip, queer-friendly coffeehouse just as centric as P. Reial. There’s no sign, but it’s right under the Arc. Order a quiche, fall in love. Remember what Rosecrans Baldwin said about living in Europe: “The system is rigged. Civilization is being shoplifted. No one knows when they’ll die or how it will come about; and what should you do? the idea is - reflect a moment, enjoy oneself, have a cigarette.”
2. Marica Pop, Somoslas, A Los Huevos Tuyos: These three, collectively, are the best parties in town. They’re the Misshapes, and Motherfuckers of Barcelona, except they’re fun. A los huevos tuyos is hosted by the O’Jettes, two drag queens with beards and body fat who’ll personally hand out Nutella sandwhiches halfway through the brunch hour party (its starts at 7 pm @ apolo 2, usually). Somoslas (at apolo2) is where you’ll see the slutty skinny hipsters who get on Kink. Also, Ferdiyei is an amazing Dj. Marica Pop is the geighest of the three parties, usually at Martins @ Diagonal; I actually saw a boy pull out a can of hairspray in the middle of the crammed dancefloor to spritz himself. I live for sights like this. on heavy rotation? Blind, Give it 2 me.
3. La Bata (map) Can I call myself a regular at La Bata? I don’t know that the lesbian bartender with the eyepatch would recognize me (probably because of the eyepatch). Known for the narrow hall that leads to the dance party in the back, La Bata is a very unpretentious, homey bar on the street with all the whores, Robador.
3. Moog (map) another really unpretentious place. No hipsters/scenester types, just dark and hirsute boys that love to dance. The dj is likely to play Bailando and Dolly Parton. He’s actually locked in a cage, and he moves inside of it like Tina Turner in the Thunderdome. Avoid the bottom floor, a modest replica of the worst toilet in the world from Trainspotting.
4. Santa Maria del Mar (map): After dancing, a religious experience. Surprise! Santa Maria is considered the people’s church, because it was built, between 1329 and 1383, by the workers and fishermen who lived in its vicinity. Its vault is intimidating; Robert Hughes wrote that if every church looked like it, he might have stayed a catholic. Built on top of Roman burial grounds, it is located in a place that used to be scuzzy too, El Borne.
5. Lletraferit (map) and Barcelona Rouge (map): Lletraferit is a library slash bar. There are books decorating the entire space that patrons are encouraged to leaf through while they wait for their White Russians. Some people actually do! It’s a very classy bar that also makes amazing mango smoothies. Barcelona Rouge, is an even classier bar, where they project old movies on the blood-red wall (the entire space is painted red, since: Rouge). They also sell Absinthe, if that’s your thing.
6. Tucco (map): The cheapeast pasta in the city (3-5euros), is also the freshest. Handmade, topped with unbelievable pesto, Tucco’s pasta comes in all sorts of combinations. Located a few steps away from Plaza Trippi. Owned by mercurial Argentinean couple who sometimes close it when they feel like going..somewhere, the beach, B.A., whatever.
7. Wilde (map): classy vintage store run by cute guy (hi Carlos!) with nice arms, Wilde specializes in beautiful dress shirts, bought in lots of places (new shipment in from Belgium!). Dirt cheap: 15-25 euros. The other good vintage stores are in Riera Baixa.
8. Itzli. Mirallers, 7. Very cheap mexican. When I tried their cheesy nachos, I was like, MADRE SANTISIMA. (Also: Banys Vells, is maybe the cutest street in all of Barcelona).
9. Hamptons (map): Racks and racks of expensive jeans here, Barcelona’s answer to Colette. After, go to Creps del Borne.
10. Iguapop (map): This is the gallery that I frequented most often, although others like Miscelanea, or distritoQuinto, always had provocative stuff. Iguapop wouldn’t look out of place at Art Basel (UPDATE: In fact, they were!) This is a good, wide space, nicely curated; even when a show doesn’t work, it starts a conversation. Sometimes, they even host Feist.
11. La Penultima (map): gayeixample is where all the gay places are, but la Penultima doesn’t like a straightjacket. Proudly located in el Raval, it’s always full. Good drinks, well lit, classy all around. If Choire Sicha lived in Barcelona, this is where he would hang out.
Don’t leave without seeing Parc Guell, or el laberinto de Horta, amazing on a Spring Sunday afternoon. Don’t leave without getting to Arena VIP, the poppier of the Arena venues (Arena being the den mother of Barna’s gay bars); it has two floors, I prefer the basement, and its stage. Don’t leave without buying some espadrilles/flats/alpargatas at La Manual Alpargatera, where Salvador Dali used to do his shopping. Don’t leave without, at least, flipping through the magazine rack at Ras, which includes new issues of Kink and Fanzine 137. Don’t leave without checking out the best drag bar: Burdel ‘74. Don’t leave without seeing las Fellinis cariños!! Don’t leave without taking bus 120, which will give you a grand tour of the old city (Ciutat Vella) for a buck. Don’t leave without doing this.
